Imagine walking through the streets of Kyoto during a vibrant summer festival. Lanterns glow softly above, children laugh as they chase each other, and women glide past in flowing robes, each telling its own story. These robes—kimonos—are far more than garments. They are expressions of culture, status, and season, each type suited to a particular occasion and purpose.
Let’s take a journey through the enchanting world of kimono, discovering their unique forms and the moments they bring to life.
The Quiet Hero: Nagajuban (襦袢 / Juban)
Before the vibrant outer layers, there is the humble nagajuban. Think of it as the kimono’s quiet foundation. Usually made from lightweight silk or cotton, it slips on beneath a formal or semi-formal kimono. Its patterns are subtle, sometimes nearly invisible, and its purpose is simple but essential: to protect the outer kimono and add a hint of elegance through a decorative collar. Though rarely seen in full, the nagajuban quietly sets the stage for every kimono ensemble.
Summer’s Delight: Yukata (浴衣)
Come summer, the streets are dotted with yukata, casual cotton robes that breathe life into festivals and hot springs alike. Lightweight and unlined, the yukata is perfect for those warm, balmy evenings when you want comfort without sacrificing style. Its patterns are bold and often seasonal—cherry blossoms in spring, fireworks in summer—making it a favourite for festival-goers and as relaxing loungewear at home or at a ryokan (traditional inn).
The Gentle Layer: Hitoe (単衣)
As the seasons transition, the hitoe steps into the spotlight. A single-layered silk kimono, sometimes blended with cotton, it is designed for the warmer months. Less formal than lined winter kimono but still elegant, the hitoe is ideal for semi-formal gatherings or a leisurely afternoon tea. It’s a quiet reminder that kimono are not only for grand occasions—they adapt beautifully to everyday life.
Cooler Days: Awase (袷)
When the air turns crisp, the awase is your companion. A lined kimono, heavier and more structured than the hitoe, the awase offers warmth and sophistication. Worn during cooler months, it ranges from semi-formal to fully formal, making it suitable for professional gatherings, ceremonies, or elegant outings. The layering adds depth and richness, giving the wearer a graceful, composed silhouette.
Elegance for Special Moments: Tomesode (留袖)
Step into a wedding hall, and you’re likely to spot the tomesode, the formal kimono for married women. Usually black (kurotomesode) or subtly coloured (irotomesode), its decorative patterns rest elegantly below the waist. The tomesode announces dignity and respect, making it the choice for weddings, formal ceremonies, and other highly significant events.
Celebration and Youth: Furisode (振袖)
For young, unmarried women, there is no garment as striking as the furisode. Defined by its long, swinging sleeves and silk fabric, it is a kimono made for celebration. From coming-of-age ceremonies to weddings, the furisode exudes youthful energy and festive charm. Wearing it feels like a dance in fabric, full of joy and possibility.
A Stylish Layer: Haori (羽織)
Finally, the haori—a short jacket worn over a kimono—adds the perfect finishing touch. Whether silk or cotton, it brings warmth and style to casual and semi-formal outfits alike. The haori is versatile, practical, and endlessly charming: the kimono world’s equivalent of a tailored blazer.
A Simple Way to Remember:
Under layers: Nagajuban
Casual summer: Yukata
Lightweight spring/summer: Hitoe
Lined cooler months: Awase
Formal outer kimono: Tomesode, Furisode
Short outer layer: Haori
Each kimono carries a story—of season, of age, of celebration, of quiet elegance. Together, they form a wardrobe not just of fabric, but of tradition, artistry, and the poetry of daily life.
